Yes, Athens is crowded and outsize and horrid and smoggy. But.
The Sacred Rock:
The back streets of Plaka. A reminder that once, this used to be a chic 19th century town:
… with a lot of 21st century Greeks jammed in:
The peekaboo of antiquities against the cityspace. Like the Roman Forum:
The view from the Hotel Grande Bretagne rooftop bar:
And the bookstores that still survive. The remaining repositories of Greek lore.